This season, Copenhagen Fashion Week felt like a journey in itself. Across five distinctive collections, designers explored movement, escape and the places that shape the way we dress – turning S/S 27 into a wardrobe made for life in motion. From quiet Scandinavian minimalism to more expressive silhouettes, each brand offered its own destination.
In Galib Gassanoff’s native Azerbaijani, YAD signifies “foreign” or “strange”, evoking a sense of not belonging.
Simultaneously, as a borrowed word, it also means “memory” or “to remember.”
Institution is YAD in two ways: one side represents the memory of the creator, the communities, cultural belonging, and heritage; the other reflects the reality of not belonging, the place where we exist and present our memories.
The looks represent an evolution of human forms, emphasized and restructured through materials ranging from silk to stainless steel. Tetri – the Georgian fractional currency, in circulation since 1995 – is repurposed as a symbol of freedom from repression. Applied to silk, it shapes the human form in steel, recalling the chain-mail shirts of the Middle Ages.
ALMADA LABEL presented its first-ever runway show during Copenhagen Fashion Week, marking a defining moment in the brand’s evolution and introducing its AW26 collection to an international audience.
Presented within the SS27 schedule, the brand chose to unveil its AW26 collection – a deliberate decision that reflects ALMADA LABEL’s customer-first approach to seasonality. Rather than following the traditional fashion calendar, the collection was presented at the moment it became relevant to wear, with pieces made available for purchase immediately after the show.
“Showing during Copenhagen Fashion Week felt like a natural next step for us” said founders Alexa Dagmar and Linda Juhola.
“This wasn’t about changing who we are, but about bringing together everything we’ve been building over the past five years. It was an opportunity to present the complete ALMADA LABEL universe in the way it was always intended to be experienced.”
With its first runway presentation, ALMADA LABEL demonstrated a confident and considered vision for contemporary womenswear – one that favours timeless relevance over seasonal novelty and reflects a brand continuing to evolve with purpose.
CPHFW S/S 27 Almada Label Backstage, photos by Bryndis Thorsteinsdottir
By Malene Birger announces its return to the official Copenhagen Fashion Week schedule for the first time in six years, marking a significant homecoming moment for the brand.
For Spring Summer ‘27, By Malene Birger will present the collection at Friheden, an intimate setting deeply connected to the brand’s identity and future. Taking place at this private residence, the show reflects a renewed relationship with Copenhagen: A return to its heritage that has shaped the house since its founding, while looking ahead with a continued sense of evolution.
The collection was first imagined in the depths of winter, born from a longing for warmth and light. It reflects the anticipation of summer; the feeling of days that exist first in memory and imagination before they fully arrive.
At the heart of the collection is the sun: a symbol of optimism, renewal, and the quiet rituals that define the warmer months. It serves as both muse and metaphor, representing the moments of transition between seasons, between memories and experiences, and between what has been and what is yet to come.
Studio Constance celebrates the modern woman: empowered, independent and unafraid to explore and express her inner world. The collection is a celebration of deep intuition, the unseen and unwavering inner knowing that guides us beyond logic.
“This collection is somewhat of a message that reflects my own personal transformation, I am entering a new phase of life and mind. Moving from one dimension to another, and that journey inspires me and very much informs my work right now”. – Rebecca Dovenryd Almberg
“This is a woman who dresses with drama yet remains deeply grounded, bold in expression, effortless in spirit. It is within this tension that I see beauty, creating a collection where opposing forces exist in harmony and spark something entirely new”. – Rebecca Dovenryd Almberg
There is a particular elegance found in those who travel not to escape, but to observe.
For Spring Summer 2027, The Garment presents The Tourist, a collection inspired by the romance of slow journeys, inherited memories, and the quiet beauty discovered while moving through unfamiliar places. Rather than celebrating destinations, The Tourist celebrates perspective. It is a collection about seeing rather than seeking, about returning home changed by what you noticed along the way. In a world that encourages movement, it finds beauty in observation and connection.
The collection draws from the rituals of travel, and the rituals of packing and coming home. It takes inspiration from vintage handwritten postcards, sun-bleached photographs, linen drying in Mediterranean courtyards, and museum visits that become as memorable as the destinations themselves. Inspired by Bertel Thorvaldsen’s years in Italy and the timeless ease of Mediterranean summers, the collection reflects a wardrobe assembled over a lifetime rather than a season.
Silhouettes remain understated yet expressive. Crisp shirting, sculptural dresses, fluid tailoring, and effortless separates are softened through antique-inspired lace, heirloom embroidery, and handcrafted details that speak quietly of time and care. Cotton poplin, sheer fabrics, silk, and delicate knits create movement without excess, allowing each garment to age gracefully alongside the woman who wears it.
“This collection began with a suitcase. As I traveled through Spain, Italy, Greece and France, I realized that every journey leaves something behind and brings something new home – not just objects, but a different way of seeing. The Tourist celebrates that feeling. It is a wardrobe for a life well traveled, with pieces that become part of your story and, over time, your personal archive. I wanted to create clothes that remind us that the most meaningful journey are often the ones that quietly change the way we see the world.” – Charlotte Eskildsen, Creative Director
Source: CPHFW
