Schiaparelli’s AW25 collection at Paris Fashion Week made waves with its bold combination of Texan shabbiness and fashion sophistication. The catwalk was a show of contrasts – structured leather and raw copper met with the softness of fluid fabrics, creating a striking harmony. In this collection, Daniel Roseberry departed from fleeting trends, creating pieces that exude both timeless charm and a deeply personal sense of style.
Cowboy Core reworked
Cowboy style is still popular, and Daniel Roseberry, the creative mind behind Schiaparelli, has given it a new, distinct identity. After drawing influence from the Wild West last year, the designer concentrated this time on rawness and strong detailing. The line included huge sheepskin jackets, triple-buckled belts with elaborate buckles, and handcrafted leather handbags.
Copper, a new hallmark
While gold embellishments have become nearly synonymous with the Schiaparelli look, Roseberry chose to replace them with copper. This warm metal was used throughout the collection, from satin ribbons embellishing garments to subtle, matte finishes on appliqués.
Delphine Bellini, the brand’s CEO, also successfully matched the vibe of the event, greeting visitors in an ensemble made entirely of worn jeans. The event was held at Paris’ famed Museum of Modern Art, which added to its uniqueness.
A fresh touch on cowboy style
Although Bella Hadid, known for her enthusiasm for horseback riding, would appear to be the ideal choice as the ambassador of this raw style, it was her sister Gigi who began the presentation. The model wore an immaculate black suit with a loosely tied bow, which she paired with Western-style high heeled ankle boots.
The Schiaparelli collection’s silhouettes evolved on a new dimension; the designer chose large coats with wider shoulders, and corset elements, rather than serving a shaping function, became decorative embellishments on shirts and double-waisted leather pants.
Extravagant details with a touch of surrealism
Schiaparelli has always flirted with surrealism, and Roseberry incorporates these themes into his creations. Oversized buckles on sleeveless shirts and rings shaped like golden fingers were among the collection’s unexpected touches. The real stars, however, were the short sheepskin jackets embellished with gnu fur, which struck the perfect mix between luxury and useful design.
Prêt-à-Porter returns to the spotlight
Roseberry remarked that his magnificent red carpet creations frequently overwhelm the prêt-à-porter seasons. This time, he wanted to highlight ordinary outfits that merge Schiaparelli’s avant-garde elegance with functionality.
Fashion inspired by lifestyle
The collection does more than just reinvent cowboy style; it also conveys a tale. To the strains of country music, the presentation took the audience to a world of western nostalgia, but presented in a modern, sophisticated manner. The cowboy trend may alter with time, but Roseberry demonstrates that it can be reinterpreted, resulting in something more durable than the seasonal trend of hats and leather boots.
Under his guidance, Schiaparelli is not only revitalizing the Wild West idea, but also forging a new legend with a copper sheen as its signature.
Photos by Mateusz Pielesz for Magazine Exclusive, more photos can be found here : https://www.instagram.com/mateuszpielesz/
Photography : Mateusz Pielesz
