London, with its theatricality, rich history, and tradition never ceases to amaze. Whenever I travel to London, the capital, in terms of fashion and style, invariably surprises, amazes, and inspires me. Comparing London with other European fashion capitals, one can notice its extraordinary sense of taste and courage. This observation applies to the style on the streets of the city and undoubtedly also to the collections presented during London Fashion Week 2025
A week of colors, diverse cuts, and syncretism of materials. London Fashion Week 2025 is an event directly related to British heritage, whose pillar is theater. In addition, the theatrical character was also enhanced by a fantastic selection of models embodying the aesthetics and spirit of the brands whose collections were presented. Sometimes, through physical resemblance, for a split second it may seem that we are seeing David Bowie (Oscar Ouyuang’s collection) or Vivienne Westwood (Ashish’s collection) on the catwalk.
Heritage – wealth
The Barrus collection is definitely memorable. It draws not on British heritage, but on something much more distant in time, namely antiquity. Barrus reinterprets the style and cut of that era. The colors refer to the architecture of the time, to the light, pastel colors of ancient cities. Referring to heritage (this time British), the Burberry collection hits the mark. I have a feeling that if Shakespeare were alive today, he would like this collection the most. Founded in 1856, the Burberry brand gives us a sense of stability, authenticity, and comfort. The cuts and colors are timeless and classic. This fashion feast took place at Tate Britain.
Theatricality and performativity
“What’s important to have in this crazy world of fashion is longevity” – Roksanda. Believing in timelessness, the Roksanda brand presents styles that are theater and life in themselves. In tribute to British sculptor Phyllida Barlow, Roksanda’s collection presented at London Fashion Week 2025 consists of “creations-sculptures” that take on a life and story of their own when worn by models.
In addition to theatrical references, there are also cinematic ones. Simone Rocha’s AW25/26 collection, referring to the fairy tale “The Tortoise and The Hare,” presents the philosophy of slowly pursuing a desired goal. In the case of the Simone Rocha brand, the goal is reached on a soft carpet, in the historic interior of Goldsmiths’ Hall, in leather jackets with fur elements and accessories resembling hares and tortoises. There are also airy silks and pastel colors. In the AW25 collection, inspired by the delicate carnation flower but taking place in the Old Bailey Criminal Courtroom, performativity and theatricality come to the fore, and the collection is not without significance.
A place for the young (and younger)
Founded in 2005, Erdem engages in a dialogue with British painter Kaye Donachie in its AW25/26 collection. This time, it is not “creations-sculptures” but “creations-canvases.” Erdem brings Donachie’s nostalgic, emotional portraits into the world of fashion. As a result, each outfit tells a story.
KEBURIA is an even younger brand, established in 2015 in Tbilisi. George Keburia, its founder, also does not underestimate the importance of heritage. On the contrary, he directly refers to the Victorian era by creating almost theatrical costumes. He reconstructs the style of the Victorian era, presenting it in a new style, for which he also uses inspiration from “broken dolls.”
The theatricality and references to the rich history and heritage that we saw during the London Fashion Week shows will undoubtedly leave their mark. What observations and thoughts come to mind after reviewing Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks? Coming soon!
Author of the article: Adrianna Hanslik
Photos: Deborah Iona Photography
