Schiaparelli’s AW25 collection at Paris Fashion Week made waves with its bold combination of Texan shabbiness and fashion sophistication. The catwalk was a show of contrasts – structured leather and raw copper met with the softness of fluid fabrics, creating a striking harmony. In this collection, Daniel Roseberry departed from fleeting trends, creating pieces that exude both timeless charm and a deeply personal sense of style.
From the waist up, the belt is jewelry, not an accessory
The large presence of belts is immediately noticeable in the silhouettes. Black, wide, and highly ornamented with gold buckles, they are sometimes stacked up and worn in layers, similar to corsets but with an almost armor-like function. It is not only a useful element, but also an important compositional point. When worn with a black leather skirt with a high slit or loose pants with a shiny sheen, belts become a voice of the past transported to the future – baroque gold meets modernist coolness of leather.
The force of the silhouette: large structure and a waist that appears to be from a magazine
Has male form been translated to the female world? But in Schiaparelli’s interpretation, it’s twisted and pushed the boundaries of sculpting. Jackets with exaggerated shoulders are properly cut at the waist and paired with fitted trousers in a beautiful check. Clothes become architecture; they shape the body, imprinting a story of strength, independence, and dominance on the silhouette. In contrast, soft, flowing knits with geometric stitching and softly flared sleeves are secured with a distinctive medallion belt. Here, too, the waist reigns supreme, but not in a warlike manner, but as if drawn with an artist’s brush.
Materials: to touch, not just view
The collection has an impression both visually and sensually. Grain leather, embossed and polished like a sheet of metal, appears throughout the silhouettes, giving the feeling of heaviness and armor. Tweed in a small check pattern is given new life, not as an element of classics, but as an exaggerated coat with a dramatic collar reminiscent of a theatrical prop. Sequins and glittering embroidery on evening gowns sparkle like liquid gold, hypnotizing but cool and geometric. Fur completes the look, which is rusty-brown, wild, and aggressive in volume, almost like a manifestation of nature’s might.
Colors range from earthy to metallic
The predominant colors are brown, black, and gold. Brown in diverse tones ranging from coffee to rust adds to the collection’s cohesiveness, evoking images of an antique library and the interior of a desolate palace. Gold highlights – buckles, applications, and stitching – are like a burst of sunlight on an October morning: quick but memorable. Pure white appears austere but stunning, particularly when used with black leather and gold, accentuating the contrast of forms and materials.
Upcoming trends include sculpture, rescaling, and baroque drama
Schiaparelli is not a trend-following brand; rather, it creates them. However, following this show, we can anticipate clear inspirations in other fashion houses’ next collections: a return to gigantic shoulders, massive accessories worn in layers, a dramatic approach to evening wear, and a reinvention of classics in the spirit of the avant-garde. It is also another step toward clothing that communicates strength, luxury, legacy, and modernism rather than simply decorating.
In a world where fashion is increasingly emphasizing minimalism and comfort, Schiaparelli reminds us that drama and form are still doing well. Clothing can be more than just a cover; it can be a sculpture, a story, or a manifesto.
Photos by Mateusz Pielesz for Magazine Exclusive, more photos can be found here : https://www.instagram.com/mateuszpielesz/
Photography : Mateusz Pielesz
