Anna Molinari and Gianpaolo Tarabini launched Blumarine, a luxury Italian brand, in 1977. The brand’s name was inspired by their love of blue and the water that surrounds the island of Capri. Blumarine has long been known for its ultra-feminine designs, which combine delicate ruffles, flowery motifs, and light textiles with a current fashion aesthetic. The brand continues to evolve, with David Koma taking over as creative director on July 31, 2024.
Blumarine’s new vision
Blumarine has long been known for its feminine shapes that highlight the silhouette’s best features. The brand’s signature dresses feature ruffles, breezy materials, and romantic accents. David Koma did not abandon these components; rather, he gave them a more modern, expressive character. His collection is a daring blend of elegance and force, inspired by Italian film luminaries Monica Bellucci and Anna Magnani, as well as rising stars Alice Pagani and Celeste Dalla Porta.
Colors and materials: classic in new edition
Blumarine’s fall palette is primarily black, red, and white, which the designer believes best depict the character of the next season. The designs were made from expensive fabrics such as velvet dresses, cashmere sweaters, and chiffon blouses that delicately highlight the female figure. Lingerie-inspired motifs included mini-dresses with corset-like details and ornate lacing on leather trousers.
The power of contrast: structure and light
The runway show was a clash of conflicting components, with Blumarine’s lightness juxtaposing strong architecture and striking accessories. Irina Shayk opened the show in a tight jacket with fur trim, followed by sculptural jackets and dresses that highlighted the waist and shoulders. The collection also had plenty of flowing pieces, such as Chantilly lace dresses, ruffled tops, and sheer fabrics, which added sensuality.
Details that define style
Floral themes dominated the collection, with the Sicilian thistle appearing in embroidery, prints, and metal treatments on black materials. The Blumarine rose, which is well-known among lovers of the company, was turned into futuristic ornaments. Metal embellishments, studs, and rings lent a modern twist to the designs, resulting in an unusual blend of romanticism and austerity of form.
The show that attracted stars
The Blumarine event took held in a minimalist, sunny room with a neutral backdrop for the collection. The music of Italian rapper Myss Keta created an upbeat environment, and guests included Normani and Azealia Banks. The entire affair was expertly planned, and David Koma’s debut was highly welcomed by critics and the general public.
Blumarine takes a new path
David Koma demonstrated that he can integrate Blumarine’s tradition with a contemporary approach to fashion. His collection was brimming with contrasts between subtlety and strength, romanticism and modernity. Will his tenure be a long-term success? Everything implies that Blumarine is moving in a new, exciting path under his guidance.
One thing is certain: Blumarine’s fashion remains the epitome of femininity, albeit in a more definite, expressive edition.
Photographer: Mateusz Pielasz
